Photo/Image News Network tries to answer technical questions of interest to Photo Specialty Dealers and Minilabs. We don't know everything, but will try to find out. Our answers are matters of opinion, not statements of fact, and should be relied upon as such! All questions must be submitted by the form below. Sometimes I just e-mail back the answer, and post things that might be of general interest.
Many frequently-asked questions are answered in our Technical Index
Lately many of the questions submitted seem to be coming from end users, but that's ok, too. One of the top questions: "Where can I get an instruction book?" Check this list.
Questions and our Responses:Thuy writes: I have a Pentax ME se, I have a screw mount ring adaptor on it then I screw an Ultron Carl Zeiss lens on it, the lens fits it but the diaphragm does not work, it always opens to the largest f-stop even I move the aperture ring to different settings. would you tell me why and how to overcome it. I like the camera and the lens. many many thanks,
On screw-mount lenses for the Pentax, the aperture is closed when a lever
on the camera body pushes in a pin on the back of the lens. This doesn't
happen when you use the lens on a bayonet body with an adapter.
First let me thank you for a very useful site. I want to set up a lab at my family business, at a resort town. I worked at a Lab for three years in the early 90's. What I need is some recommendations as to which noritsu, agfa or fuji models would fit this criteria.
I woud be buying a professionally reconditioned unit, and staying in the 8,000 to 12,000 dollar range.
It's hard to get an idea of which models fill the bill. Thanks for
any help. Al
Some relatively late models with decent reliability and parts seem to be
the Konica 808 and the Noritsu 1501. They typically sell for $12-20,000 with
a film processor.
Good question. One pair triggers the shutter release and another makes the camera focus, if memory serves me. By using a jump wire you should be able to determine which is which. While I don't think doing this would damage your camera, I don't know for sure that it won't.
firstname.lastname@example.org writes: I have a Sawyers projector model 707 AQ. I have a 4 to 6 zoom
lens. I need a lens that I can use with a transfer box. My lens does not have
the correct focal length. I need a lens with give a sharp focus at about 4"x 6" picture. Can you help me?
A- I had seen this problem working the other way. When Minolta introduced the second generation of Maxxums, the "i" series, they changed the control circuitry. Some lens manufacturers such as Sigma had chips in the lenses that would not work with the newer model cameras.
Don't have an answer for this one, however. Readers?
FUJI PRINTER 1040B/140 E-PROM WE ARE LOOKING FOR E-PROM FOR ABOVE PRINTER TO CONVERT ITS LANGUAGE FROM
JAPANESE TO ENGLISH FOLLOWING SOME DETAILS ABOUT OUR PRINTER. THANKS email@example.com (DR.
I would contact Fuji's minilab parts department for this:
Melissa - I'll be posting your request for info on the Photo Image News
Although this column is intended for dealers, we get a lot of questions from consumers such as this one:
My son has an old SLR Sears KSX with a lock up problem. Film cannot be advanced; the shutter blind is up, thus preventing seeing through the view window. Can you help? Thanks. :-)
The KSX was a Ricoh-manufactured SLR, one of many Sears has sold. It sounds as though it locked up in the middle of a cycle. It's a mechanically-timed shutter, so that changing the barrery (always our first step) won't do anything. Try it anyway.
Second step involves removing the baseplate and gently pushing aside the pawl which keeps the winding shaft from turning. This would allow you to recock the shutter and start the next cycle. Sometimes this works. Failing that it's time for a trip to the repair shop, which will probably cost at least $75. firstname.lastname@example.org
My son tried it as you suggested and it worked like a charm. Many thanks for your kind instructions. Sincerely, Joe Sr.
Do you have a recommendation of where/how I can get a file conversion program to
read my .PCD files? I have Windows '98 but purchased my computer in 1996. My computer at
work includes Microsoft Photo Editor so I can view my pictures there.
We get a lot of questions about using the files from Kodak Photo CDs (.pcd format). In general, the best software for this is Adobe PhotoShop with the appropriate plug-in. Kodak has posted a series of answers to FAQ's about converting .pcd files Read the entire page and you'll find where you can download free versions. chris@photoimagenews
Is that all true? has APS today a promising future? I am thinking of CANON IXUS
series, are they best value for money? what is your recommendation for APS pocket-size
cameras? and finally, is it true you can only get one size for enlarged reprints? sorry
for the load of questions,
APS cameras are here to stay. Each year they make up a higher percentage of camera
Yes, there were many new APS cameras announced at PMA this year. That's also true of
other film sizes, new models come out. The Canon IXUS series (called ELPH) in the United
States are well made cameras with perhaps the widest acceptance of any APS camera at any
price. The original ELPH (2-1 zoom, stainless steel body) is the most popular model, and
the results are excellent. From a marketing standpoint, it would be hard to choose a
better lineup - although much depends on the strength of your local distributor. (the
e-mail address suggests you are from Spain.)
I am looking for a projector bulb supply for the following: 1) KEYSTONE Projector,
Model K108. The current bulb LOOKS like it has a "DGH" on it. It says 750 Watts.
It's a bit faded though. 2) REVERE Projector, Model P-90. The bulb is about 4 1/2 inches
high. It says, "500 watt, Westinghouse Base-down Projection". These projectors
are ones that I am considering buying, but the bulbs are kaput.
Charles - The K108 Keystone "official" replacement bulbs are the DDB (750
watts) or the CZX/DAB (500 watts). The Revere P90 also used DDB or CZX bulbs. Both
machines are very old - probably 40 years plus. Before buying either one, let them run for
a while to see how well they run and smell. Personally I'd look for something a
ltitle more recent.
I have a Sears KSX Super SLR camera. I am curently using it for astrophotography, but the trouble with the camera is the focusing screen. I need to get a clear focusing screen to aid in the focusing of the camera, but cannot find one for the type of camera i have. I have seen them advertised for the Cannon EOS, Nikon FE/FE2/FA/FM2, Nikon F3, Nikon F/F2, Olympus OM1-4, and the Pentax LX. I was wondering if you could tell me if one of these focusing screens would work with my camera or where i could get one to work with my camera. The place that sells those i mentioned didn't seem to know. Please help.
Sincerely, Brian Portman
Hi! Could you help me to know where can I get generic software for download to use it to transfer my images on FUJIFILM MX-700 digital camera. Are there generic software/products which can understand its format ? on Window 95 or Windows NT ? Thanks in Adv Virendra Vishnu
The MX-700 saves images in the standard JPEG format (*.jpg). Just about any software such as Adobe Photo Deluxe or Photoshop or MGI Photosuite can handle jpegs easily. You must have the drivers to let your computer recognize your MX-700 as a TWAIN source. Those are not generic and should have come with the camera. Another way to get images from your camera to your computer is using the Flashpath adapter, which allows you to insert SmartMedia cards in a 3 1/2 floppy drive.
Subj: $ 4,000 digital imaging station
Author is Chris Lydle. Chris' Camera Center, 215 Wanaque Avenue, Pompton Lakes, NJ 07442. (973) 835-2213
The maximum resolution you can get when transferring images from APS negatives depends
on the scanner you use. The Kodak Advantix Film Drive FD 300, for example, has three
resolutions - up to 2400 DPI. That works out to a resolution of about 1,600 by 2,800
pixels - far more than most "megapixel" digital cameras. You can make any size
image you want to when you print it, if you have photo manipulation software.
I know I can't run film from Seattle Film Works and places like that through my C-41 processor, but I don't know why?
Eastman color films (such as Type 5247) are designed for use in professional motion picture cameras only. Years ago moviemakers like Steve Spielberg would buy hundreds of thousands of feet of film at one time, so there won't be any color changes. They may have had thirty thousand feet left at the end of the shooting, so they would sell it to mail order houses, who would cut it into small strips and sell it in cassettes. Today some vendors buy fresh movie negative film directly from Kodak and Fuji and spool it in short rolls for marketing purposes, so that they can offer a differentiated service (which locks the customer into using their services.)
These films cannot be processed along with regular film -- if it goes thru the standard C-41 process, both that film and the other customers' film in the processor will be ruined.
Kodak states that
Professional motion picture films have a "rem-jet" coating, a black anti-halation coating on the base that must be removed in a special bath that's part of a cinema roll processor - but is not in the C-41 process.
Never put a roll of Eastmancolor film into a minilab processor under any circumstances!
The rem-jet coating will come off and ruin your chemistry, foul your rollers, and possibly damage other film running at the same time.
Having said all that, I should note that a lot of the film coming to our lab in Seattle Film Works canisters is not motion picture film, but C-41 film, apparently made by Agfa. How can you tell the difference? The motion picture film looks a lot different - the emulsion side is blackish - and the perforations are more rounded than "regular" 35mm film. We run it through the C-41 processor with no ill effects after a senior lab operator has looked at it very closely!